Lard.
A word that strikes fear into the hearts of some and the joyous flavor of pig fat into others.
Chef owner Rick Gencarelli knew he was walking the line when he decided on “Lardo,” a reference to old world charcuterie, as the title of his stake in the Portland cult sandwich scene. But the name is just one of Gencarelli’s many risks that have paid off for Lardo, which has become something of a local franchise since it began as a food cart in 2010.
But he does risky right, with a simple menu, simple atmosphere and bold-ass flavors.
Lardo’s menu is welcoming, unlike some of the other niche-y spots in town. Everything is distinctly Gencarelli’s own, but not so much so that you don’t know what to order. There are the sandwich favorites — the burger ($10), the banh mi ($9), the turkey with cranberry sauce ($11) — each with their own twist. Back that up with the fact that everything tastes great no matter what you order, and you’ve got a winner.
All of the bread is locally sourced (from Philippe’s Bread), along with the inspiration, as the menu offers a monthly special featuring a local chef. This month: a house-smoked beef brisket sandwich with kimchi slaw and gochujang BBQ sauce from Patrick Fleming of Boke Bowl and benefitting Central City Concern. The specials keep fans coming back for something new, and fit the Portland food scene’s unofficial motto: “community, not competition.”
There is, however, a competition within my heart for the best French fries, and Lardo’s “Dirty Fries” ($4) have secured their place in the running. Perfectly crispy potato wedges swimming in rosemary and sage and visibly dripping with melted parmesan cheese were presented in a generous portion alongside my sandwich on an unpretentious paper plate.
After deciding on a Full Sail Session Ale from their extensive list of local beers on tap (beer is the most important part of eating a sandwich, is it not?), I opted for the Korean pork shoulder sandwich with house kimchi, chili mayo, cilantro and lime ($10).
Despite being an unconventional choice, the kimchi provided a tang and crunch necessary to cut the chewy richness of the homemade bread and stewed pork shoulder. The chili mayo and cilantro was a well thought-out combo that added spicy and fresh notes to round out the sandwich — which rounded out my stomach after I inhaled it.
The pork meatball banh mi worked, too. The meatball was an interesting textural choice compared to the classic hunk of crispy pork belly, but the bright flavors of the pickled veggies and cucumber, along with the signature spicy mayo, ensured that it was highly satisfying nonetheless.
As Gencarelli continues to expand his influence on the Portland culinary front — with additional Lardo locations, a handcrafted pasta restaurant that he opened next door to the SE Hawthorne location and catering services — food lovers can look forward to more opportunities to indulge in his unique style and, of course, in pig fat.
